By: John Warde, New York Times
Early Spring is the best time to inspect the outside of the house. An inspection as soon as working outdoors is feasible allows making small repairs promptly and provides a head start on larger projects.
Start by checking gutters and downspouts. They are crucial in preventing foundation leaks, and gutters especially may have been damaged from snow and ice.
Try to observe the gutters when it is raining, to see overflows. Clear the gutters by scooping out debris, and work by standing on a ladder, not by climbing onto the roof, which can invite a fall.
If a gutter overflows or drips despite being clear, look for misaligned or separated sections and for gutter fasteners that have loosened or broken, thereby altering the gutter’s slope.
Realign sections and push them back together, if necessary. Applying a high-quality elastic caulk to gutter seams will usually end dripping. Try to inject caulk into the seams rather than covering them.
REPLACE BENT OR loosened fasteners if they cannot be repaired. Install new fasteners at least an inch from the locations of the originals to assure firmness. Gutter sections should slope downward toward downspouts by at least one-quarter inch for every 10 feet or length.
See that splash blocks, hoses or other drainage devices are placed or attached beneath downspouts and are free of debris. Those aids direct downspout runoff away from the foundation, thus minimizing erosion.
In addition, the devices prevent saturation of soil against the foundation, which can cause basement leaks. If downspouts drain into buried hoses or pipes, make sure that their outlets are clear. That also applies to sump-pump drains.
Using binoculars, inspect sloping roofs from the ground for problems like raised or torn asphalt shingles. Climb onto flat roofs or check them from convenient windows for cracked blisters. Then go to the attic and examine the underside of the roof, particularly where the eaves meet the walls.
Dark areas on the roof’s underside are evidence of leaks. If an area is damp, take immediate steps to repair the roof, patching it with roofing cement or calling a licensed roofer.
INSPECT ANY ATTIC insulation beneath such areas. Remove it if it is wet and allow the joints and ceiling below to dry completely. Replace insulation that has been soaking wet. Dampened insulation that remains fluffy can be put back after it dries.
Check other roof features like flashing, chimney masonry and places where antenna guy wires are attached. Use roofing cement to seal damaged flashing and any fasteners that penetrate roofing. If chimney bricks are loose or if their joints are cracked or crumbling, call a mason or wait for warm weather to make repairs.
Walls can be inspected form the ground. Vinyl and aluminum siding seldom need attention, but carefully examine painted wood siding. If there are blisters that reveal bare wood when opened, the cause is probably indoor condensation, which has to be eliminated. Shallow blisters and areas of flaking paint can usually be repaired by repainting after cleaning and drying the surface.
Spot repair at once any failing painted siding to protect it until permanent repairs can be made. Scrape away any loose paints. However, be sure to collect the paint chips, which may contain lead, and discard them with the regular garbage. Then apply primer to the area.
IF WOOD SIDING or trim is cracked or if gaps exist between the ends of adjoining pieces, fill the open areas with caulk. Small decayed areas can be restored in warm weather with epoxy or acrylic filler. Repair severely decayed warped or damaged pieces by replacing them.Hairline cracks in concrete and stucco walls are usually best left alone. Larger cracks can be filled with caulk, patching cement or a stucco-repair product resembling plaster. But consider having a mason assess the damage first. Examine mortared masonry for crumbling joints.
Also inspect glazing compound, or putty, sealing the edges of window glass. Cracked compound that is still firm can be maintained by painting over it. But if compound is loose or missing, repair it by scraping away all old material and applying fresh compound.
Softening compound with a heat gun or hair dryer makes it easier to remove. Use a putty knife to pry it away before it rehardens.
Repair or replace loose weather stripping around windows and doors, and inspect outdoor decks, porches and patios. If these are wood, check for loosened parts and decay. Also consider treating them with cleaning solution, brightener or preservative when the weather warms.
Finally, examine the foundation walls for cracks. As with upper walls, patching hairline cracks is possible, but usually unsightly and often unnecessary.
Also be alert for cracks that pass completely through the wall. Any larger than hairline width, that have grown in size or that leak should be inspected by a concrete repair specialist or an independent building inspector. Foundation repairs are best made professionally, usually with epoxy.
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